Adventures of an ALMOST fifty-year-old backpacker chronicles my six-month journey through New Zealand, Australia, SE and E Asia. You can read its origin story here.
It’s got culture, history, travel advice, and just a sprinkle of neuroses.
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Osaka is a shiny city, with lots of shiny hi-rises. Neighborhoods like Kita (Umeda) have large malls surrounded by streets densely packed with small shops and restaurants. Dotonbori is a popular area centered on a canal with energy extending for blocks in all directions. It’s got a lot of neon, so check it out at night.
Osaka doesn’t have large historical areas like Kyoto, because unlike Kyoto, the Allies heavily bombed it during WWII. It was one of Japan’s industrial centers, so the Allies targeted its vast network of factories, shipyards, and docks. With incendiary bombs igniting massive firestorms that ripped through the city's densely packed wooden buildings, about one-third of Osaka burned to the ground. Many more were razed when Osaka was rebuilt because its leaders were not precious about keeping old buildings. They tended toward modern development.
Fortunately, Osaka Castle still stands, even if it’s a 1930s iteration. Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who played a key role in unifying most of Japan after a long period of civil war, built the original castle in the sixteenth century. The Tokugawa shogunate, Japan’s feudal military government for over two hundred years, expanded it in the seventeenth century. When lightning destroyed it by fire in the early-twentieth century, the city’s leaders focused mostly on rebuilding its main town (known as its keep). The Allies spared it, as it was not immediately adjacent to strategic targets, so it was one less place the Japanese needed to rebuild after the war.
It sits on a mound with a tall keep, so I could see it from afar. It’s surrounded by a large moat and tall stone walls topped with white watchtowers. Within its gates are a garden and a shrine, but I focused on the main tower. Climbing the castle keep, I ascended through a series of well-preserved wooden floors. Each level offered a glimpse into Japanese history, showcasing armor, weaponry, and artifacts from the sixteenth century. Interactive exhibits explained the castle's construction and Hideyoshi’s life. It was crowded, so I moved through swiftly, arriving at the top to take in its 360-degree view of the city.
Before entering the castle, I spent some time across the street at the Osaka Museum of History, housed in one of those aforementioned shiny hi-rises. In addition to receiving a solid grounding in Osaka’s history, I skipped the very long ticket line at the castle itself by purchasing a duel ticket at the museum. Note this tip, future visitor.
Six days in Osaka is a lot for Osaka, but thanks to Japan’s efficient train system, I took a few easy day trips.
An all-time favorite was Nara. Japan’s capital from 710-794 (when it moved to Kyoto), it was also Japan’s first important Buddhist center.
Despite its fascinating history, I was most excited to hang out with the famous Nara deer. They are all over the city, en masse. It was sometimes disconcerting to watch them congregate around tourists who’d bought wafers to feed them, but I found many peacefully lying around or hanging out in areas less thronged by visitors. They were gentle and adorable and I loved being in their midst.
After petting a few deer, I stopped by the Nara National Museum. It has an older French Renaissance inspired wing that houses an impressive collection of Buddhist sculptures. They do a good job of explaining the differences between Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, Wisdom Kings and Heavenly Beings. Through an underground passage, I visited its newer wing, which was putting on a special exhibition, also Buddhist related. Visiting the museum is not a must, but I walked out with a better sense of Buddhist art. And here’s another ticketing tip: If you enter through the Buddhist Sculpture Hall, you’ll encounter a much shorter line than going through the main entrance.
My next stop was Todai-ji Buddhist Temple, which was one of the largest temples I saw in Japan. Emperor Shōmu built its first iteration in the eighth century to solidify Buddhism’s role as the dominant religion in Japan. When it was first completed, it may have been the largest wooden structure in the world. Destroyed (mostly by fire) and rebuilt a few times, the current structure has been there since the twelfth century. Inside the hall sits a massive Buddha, a rare site in Japan, where the Buddha statues tend to be more understated (unlike Thailand where there appears to be an ongoing competition to build larger and larger Buddha statues).
After the temple, I walked through the densely wooded Nara Park and visited a few other temples before heading home. A visit to Nara is a must if in the area.
I also took a day trip to Himeji castle. Built in many stages starting in the fourteenth century, it evolved over centuries as various feudal lords expanded and fortified it. Dodging destruction throughout its history, it stands today as one of the finest surviving examples of Japanese castle architecture, earning its place as one of Japan’s twenty-five UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Nicknamed "White Heron Castle" for its elegant white facade, Himeji Castle remains a powerful symbol of Japan's feudal past.
Emerging from the train station, I gazed down the city's central boulevard, the imposing castle keep rising majestically at its far end. A brisk ten-minute walk brought me to a newish bridge that crossed a moat and led into the castle grounds. Stepping through the main walls, I first explored the West Bailey Long Corridor, where room after room displayed informative signs detailing the castle's long history and its succession of rulers. While the main keep itself was largely unfurnished, offering more historical intrigue than visual spectacle, the panoramic views from the top floor were breathtaking.
Before heading back to Osaka, I stopped at Koko-en Garden, which was built on the site of the castle’s western residence in the 1990s. Koko-en consists of nine separate walled gardens designed in various styles reflecting Edo period (1603-1868) architecture. It was a lovely place to unwind before the train trip home.
I spent my last couple of days in Osaka proper. One day it rained, so I watched Furiosa at a nearby cinema. The other day I walked down to the Namba Yasaka Shrine, which is known for its outdoor stage that looks like it was just ingested by a large lion. I then walked through America-mura, known for its maze of streets filled with trendy boutiques. It’s where the blogs said I could get a glimpse of
”Osaka’s youth culture.”
So, it is with great pleasure that Muse (the large cat pictured below) and I welcome you to Osaka. We hope you enjoy your stay. Please take in the city’s sights and make sure you spend some time in its environs. As you can see, there’s lots to see.
Notes:
All photos are my own.
I put daily pics and video on Instagram, mostly in my stories, so follow me there for a day by day account.
Hit me up with thoughts or questions in the comments.
Nara was one of my favorite parts of Japan when I visited a few years back. Thanks for the visual tour and the history lesson. There was a lot you shared I didn’t know!
All your posts are marvelous and/but I wanted to comment on this one because you may recall I grew up in Tokyo from 3rd grade to graduation and have such a nostalgic feeling about Japan - its beauty, its culture, its subtly in the midst of its quirkiness and glitz.